Main: www.jr-worldwi.de/photo/

Post-processing of infrared pictures

Ok, here I list examples for post-processing of differnt cameras. You'll see that the procedures are similar and basically you can start from my and other examples and add some of your own taste to find a post-processing to match your camera's output and your wishes. I now have devided the page into sub-pages, as the various examples made the page slow to load for people on dial-up.

Camera type	Comments
Olympus 2020	This page is also valid for other highly IR-sensitive cameras like the Olympus 2000, Olympus 2100 UZ and Nikon Coolpix 950
Modded cameras	Cameras with their IR filter removed have their own special needs and possibilities.
Minolta D7	On this page I try to explain how to cope with the bright centre spot the D7/D7i/D7hi/D7xIR has. It might also be valid for other cameras showing this phenomenon like certain Canon dSLR lenses and the Olympus 8080.
almost only red	The Pentax ist DS is an example for a camera that is fairly IR sensitive, but almost only* in the red channel. What are your choices except grayscaling?
Sigma SD10	The Sigma SD10 is currently the only affordable camera that can be switched from IR seeing to IR blind by the user. It does not use a conventional Bayer CCD, but a Foveon sensor. This sensor has some special characteristics - what influence does this have on IR pics?

Some important techniques, revisited for IR work:

Individual Channel Histogram / Levels

Learnt, adapted, adopted from Luben Solev
His description is so great that I just link to his page :)

Curves

Also check www.thegoldenmean.com/technique/curves1.html
Curves are a great way to change the appearance of bright and dark areas in one photo. Here is what simple per-channel curves can do:

original	adjusted	red&blue swapped
			levels
			curves

Correctly handled for each channel, it even includes the "Individual Channel Histogram" technique:

The blue arrows show the curve points that cause the same effect as stretching the short red histogram over the full spectrum (0-255). I found it faster to do individual levels and then a combined curves, but this may depend on the colour distribution of your shots.
If the resulting colour is too strong for your taste, just desaturate it slightly. It is always easier to get colour out than in.